Make
  • image
  • image

Easy shoe storage rack

We show you how to make a personalised shoe storage solution for shoes big, small and tall. This project can be adapted for a variety of storage options and can have even be modified to look like a chest of drawers.

 

shoe 1

 

YOU WILL NEED:
Sheet of laminated pine shelving 305 x 3000mm
Pine cover strip 22 x 44 – 2.4m
pine coer strip 9 x 44 – 6m
Masonite backing – 610 x 610 (quarter sheet)
30mm half-round moulding for drawer fronts – 2.4m
19mm quadrant – 2.4m
9mm plywood – quarter sheet
4 sets 300mm shelf runners
25mm panel pins
9mm wood screws
12mm wood screws
8 x 40mm wood screws
Wood glue
Wood filler
Clear satin finish sealer
TOOLS:
Jigsaw
Drill / Driver or cordless screwdriver
Sander plus 120- and 240-grit sanding pads
Tape measure and pencil

 

HERE'S HOW:

Begin by making the shelves, which are cut from 9mm plywood - each one 555 x 300mm. This provides space for three pairs of shoes, depending on their size and width. If you want to store more pairs adapt the width accordingly.

The total height of the unit is 920mm, with the top two drawers spaced for 250mm apart high-heels and boots. The lower two drawers are spaced closer – 160mm apart – and are for flat shoes. Again, adapt the number and spacing of the shelves to accommodate your needs. You will need to calculate these beforehand and then cut your laminated timber to length – in this case the sides are 900mm.

 

shoe 2

 

1. Assemble the sliding shelves using 9mm wood screws to secure the runners to the base.

 

shoe 3

 

2. Lay the tallest shoe on its side on the wooden shelf, allowing about 20mm at the top for clearance, and position the sliding shelf against it, as shown. This will position the top shelf.

 

shoe 4

 

3. Attach the runner channel to the side using 12mm wood screws. Check the space is correct with the tallest shoe again.

 

shoe 5

 

4. The quickest way to ensure the runners are all lined up is to position the two sides, as shown, and line each up with its opposite number. All the runners attached to the sides and all in perfect alignment.

 

shoe 6

 

5. Cut the top – in my case it was 600mm long – to provide an overhang. Attach it to the sides using glue to secure it, and then attach the 610 x 610 3mm backing using glue and panel pins to secure. Attach a length of 22 x 44 just under the top and at the base of the backing to reinforce it and make the assembly more rigid. Repeat this below the front of the lowest sliding shelf, again to ensure a rigid cabinet.

 

shoe 7

 

6. Any screws will be covered by the cover strips which will be added shortly. The cover strips are cut to length and glued to the outer leading edges of the sides and to the rear of the sides. They are positioned so that they cover the edge of the back sheet, which saves routing a recess for the latter. Two crosspieces of cover strip, top and bottom, complete the sides. Using the cover strip also avoids giving a ‘slab-sided’ appearance when the unit is viewed edge-on.


7. Now to complete the sliding shelves. Cut the 30mm half-round at 45º each end and position it on each drawer (while in place in the unit), apply glue and attach the front using 25mm panel pins as reinforcement. I suggest you position the half-round and tap a panel pin in to secure it – but not so deep that you cannot remove it with pliers if necessary. If required, reposition and then drive the panel pins home. Countersink them a little with a punch and fill the hole with pine filler.


8. Add the 19mm quadrant to the back of the sliding shelf, so that shoes don't slip off when you open it. Now your drawer is complete.


9. This is how the runner looks when attached to the end of the ‘drawer’.

 

shoe 8

 

10. The last of the 9 x 44 cover strip can be used as a barrier along the back of the top, using glue and panel pins to secure it in position. This will stop small items falling down the back of the unit.

 

shoe 9

 

GOOD TO KNOW:
When covering holes with wood filler, make sure you leave the filler ‘proud’ of the surrounding surface … in other words, above it. Then, when you sand it down, you will end up with an absolutely flat surface. When filling any deep depression or hole, do it a little at a time. If you fill it in one go, the filler tends to shrink, and possibly crack, as it dries. Filling the hole in layers will prevent this.

 


This article is brought to you by Easy DIY magazine. Click here to subscribe.

More Features